Smokey - Fashion for People

Last chance to visit us in 2006!

2006-12-14T16:37:00.000+08:00

Smokey Fashion will be at the Shirt and Skirt Markets again - for the last time in 2006.

We don't know when we will be back, so be quick! 10 am til 4pm, St Kilda Primary School, Sunday 17 December.

You can find out more about the Shirt and Skirt Markets here.

Rundown from the market

2006-10-26T15:34:00.000+08:00

Smokey had its first Australia market stall at the beginning of October. We had a great day, although the wind was pretty strong and we thought we might fly off into the sky a few times.

We will be back at the Shirt and Skirt Markets in December. We've put in orders for new stock and hopefully we might have a new design and some new fabrics to showcase then.

Chris in his Smokey fashion t-shirt.

Recently, Manila was hit by a typhoon which badly effected Smokey Mountain. No-one was hurt, but the rooves of the 20 or so buildings that house the community were blown off, so hundreds of people are now living with no roof over their heads. Electricity was also down for a number of the buildings. So your support is needed now more than ever!

Please come along and visit us if you are in Melbourne. The market is the first Sunday in December and is located near the corner of Chapel St and Carlisle St, St Kilda.

Smokey Fashion Goes to Market

2006-09-12T18:39:00.000+08:00

If you live in Melbourne, Australia, please come and visit us on Sunday October 1 for our inagural market stall. We can be found at the Shirt and Skirt Market at St Kilda Primary School from 10am to 4pm.

Come and meet some of the people behind the business, try on our beautiful garments and learn more about the community of Smokey Mountain.

We will have skirts and shorts - just in time for spring - and also great bags made from recycled materials from our friends at trashbags.

You can find out more about the Shirt and Skirt Market here.

August 06 Update

2006-08-27T13:46:00.000+08:00

Sorry we have been absent for so long, there have been lots of changes and lots of exciting things are happening.

Natalie is back in Australia, missing Smokey terribly, but working on developing a market for our garments in Melbourne. And Mark Dvorak-Little's Luce fellowship just concluded so now he's back in America and missing Smokey too!

We welcome two new wonderful additions - Simone and Marieke. Simone is from Australia and has a fashion & business background and Marieke is from Holland and has a law background. They have been very busy developing the business, working with the ladies to develop their skills, creating new designs and recruiting more help.

They have also been working with the ladies who weave the wonderful recycled newspaper baskets and bags (see trashbags link to the right). We hope to be able to use their skills in some new products for Smokey Fashion.

A scene from the bag-making workshop - Marieke, Simone and Joyet in the background

Up close with weaving old newspapers into great bags.

The Latest From Smokey...

2006-04-20T09:12:00.000+08:00

We have had a busy few weeks, between enhancing our profile in the Philippines and completing orders for Australia. But it has been great to see things in full swing.

Ate Fe hard at work on our orders for Australia.

We've been able to install better lighting in our little workshop, and it's helping a lot with those tricky details!

We had another television appearance, this time a live interview on Studio 23;s breakfast program. Rajo Laurel, Natalie Jiricek and Mark Dvorak-Little went on the show and we have had a lot of positive feedback. We still need help, so anyone who is interested in helping out in any capacity, please email us on smokeyfashion@gmail.com

Our breakfast show appearance.

We have also started on the next phase of our project, our designs with Rajo. Rajo came and visited our office at workshop at Smokey Mountain and met most of the ladies. Our next phase incorporates making patchwork out of remnant fabrics, and then turning the patchwork into stunning garments of Rajo Laurel's designs. Stay tuned for our samples soon!

Rajo Laurel and the ladies inspect patchwork made from remnant fabrics.

Our other designs (you can find them in February archives) are still going strong and we had some great combinations ordered recently. We have some photos below, and another winner which we haven't got a photo of yet, is the cream and brown circles with a chocolate brown brushed twill in the Cath skirt.

The Danielle skirt in denim and green paisley.

A special request unearthed this great combination, a soft grey wool paired with an exquisite grey and pink Japanese print.

Unfortunately we have to temporarily suspend orders from Australia, but we hope to have that up and running again soon. If anyone knows anything about online payment systems in the Philippines - please email us on smokeyfashion@gmail.com

T-Shirt Mania!

2006-03-26T11:19:00.000+08:00

Earlier this year, we held a competition amongst the residents of Smokey Mountain to design a logo to go on a t-shirt. The logo was to reflect the theme of the community of Smokey Mountain.

We had 40 entries from around the community and the winning entry was chosen by a panel of 3 judges. Aurelio Garcileno won with his colourful and simple design, winning the first prize of 1,000 pesos (A$25).

Winner with the 3 judges.

The logo was digitised by the generous folks at Sagric and then printed on to t-shirts (we would also like to acknowledge the generous donation of printing and at-cost t-shirts by Crimson).

The idea is to have t-shirts to sell to our many visitors that we have come through the community, as well as the people who wish to support the co-operative. All proceeds from the t-shirt sales goes towards supporting the livelihood programs of the co-op.

The winning entry.

So, if you want to be like Reggie (below), cool and concerned, contact us at smokeyfashion@gmail.com. We have 4 sizes - S, M, L and XL (mens sizes only). They retail for 300 pesos in the Philippines or A$10 for Australians (including handling to Melbourne). UPDATE - Size SMALL currently sold out.

Reggie modelling the t-shirt.

Pinoys and Pinays!

2006-03-16T10:46:00.000+08:00

Please email us on smokeyfashion@gmail.com to get a pricelist for the Philippines.

We also make these garments in standard Filipino sizes, so you can request a size without having to send in your measurements.

We can post finished garments to you or deliver depending on where you live.

Media Celebrities!

2006-03-15T10:07:00.000+08:00

We've had an exciting few days - not only are our machines finally reconditioned to working order, but we have had some television coverage.

A local channel - Channel 23 - filmed a story on our project Friday last week and it was screened on Newscentral last night. They very kindly posted the web address and email at the end of the story, so if you are here because of that story - welcome!

For those of you who missed the story or were not able to watch due to not living in this country - here is a brief overview.

They first filmed at House of Laurel (Rajo Laurel's shop in Rockwell), showing our skirts for sale there as well as interviewing me and one of our customers - Sally.

Me showing off the Danielle skirt for the cameras.

They also interviewed the store manager - Yoya, who discussed our upcoming work with Rajo that will be using remnant fabrics in Japanese inspired patchwork garments. They will be great!

My interview!

We then moved on to Manila to interview Mia, another one of our customers.

Mia showing off her Emily pants.

From Manila, we headed to Smokey Mountain and filmed the sewers at work as well as the surroundings. They interviewed Mila, one of our sewers.

Mila being interviewed at Smokey Mountain.

It was a very positive story and we are looking forward to seeing what kind of a response we get from the public.

Now that our machines are in working order, we are going to be developing the capacity of our sewers to meet our overseas orders as well as building their patchworking skills to soon be sewing Rajo Laurel's designs - stay tuned!

What Is Going On Now?

2006-03-01T11:34:00.000+08:00

We've been quite busy in the last few weeks. Our two ladies are still at Golden Hands Fashion School, completing their training and every time we speak to them, they are growing more confident with their skills.

Chriscencia at dressmaking school

We have also fitted out our new workshop and moved 7 machines and an overlocker into the room. All the machines have not been used for several years, so they require a lot of new parts and a bit of work. Of course, this eats away at what little capital we have, but we figure the most important thing is to get people sewing!

Our potential sewers inspect the new workshop and machines.

We also had a our first meeting yesterday with some of the women who are interested in sewing with us. Some of them don't feel very confident at sewing our garments yet, so as soon as the machines are ready, we will open our doors and they can come in and practice until they reach our high quality standards.

During our meeting with the women interested in sewing.

We also have started on a very exciting new partnership, with one of the Philippines most prominent fashion designers - Rajo Laurel. He has agreed to design a range for us, give us all his remnant fabrics , stock us in his shops and promote us wherever possible. This is a fantastic opportunity to break into the local market and we will be working with the women to ensure their skills are ready for the challenge.

We met with Rajo through Mark Dvorak-Little, an American who is in the Philippines as a Henry Luce Foundation Scholar. Mark leads Business Development and Communications, working his network of business and media contacts to get us publicity and much needed funds!

Rajo, Natalie and Mark in Rajo's shop - House of Laurel in Rockwell, Manila.

Stay tuned for more updates on the exciting new range of Rajo Laurel designed Smokey garments.

Choose Your Fabric

2006-02-17T13:49:00.000+08:00

All our garments incorporate an insert or lining of printed cotton. Below is our current range of printed cotton.

We have not included pictures of the accompanying fabric, however we have a wide range of colours in cord and denim. We also have cotton twill, but the colours are more limited. If you have an extra special request, please do not hesitate to contact us and we will do our best to accommodate your request.

All of the fabric below is imported from Japan and is high quality 100% cotton.

I have included my phone in most of the photos below to give an indication of the print size.

Green Paisley - This print would work well with a bright colour such as red or orange and would also work well with denim.

Brown Circles - This 70's inspired print would work well with a beige, brown or olive green. It would also go well with denim. The large print works best with the Danielle skirt.

Green Wavy Lines - This print would work well with bottle green, a bright colour or denim.

Blue and White Paisley - We apologise for the quality of this photo, it is a little blurry. This print would work well with white, a bright colour such as red or denim.

Orange and Yellow Flowers - This print would work well with black or denim.

Blue Maze - This 70's inspired print would work well with a bright colour such as red or with denim. The larger print works best in the Danielle skirt.

Blue and Black Small Print - This cute print would work well with red or maroon, but also suits blue, black or denim.

Black Hearts - This 60's inspired print would work well with black or denim as well as a bright colour such as red.

Black and White Psychedelic - This print also works well with black, denim or a bright colour.

Black Planets - This print would work well with black or denim, or you could also choose to match one of the colours in the print.

Pleases Note - Wherever possible, we have tried to photograph the fabric to accurately reflect its true colours. However it may not be perfect. Please take this into consideration when making your choice.

As we purchase our material upon receiving an order, we cannot 100% guarantee that your choice will be available. If this does occur, we will contact you to discuss further.

Thanks!

How To Measure Yourself

2006-02-14T17:07:00.000+08:00

We currently offer our garments as made to order. Therefore you need to submit your measurements to us. Below is a description of the measurements required for skirts, pants and shorts.

SKIRTS/PANTS/SHORTS
Waistline - the narrowest part of your torso.
First Hip - where your stomach is the largest.
Second Hip - where your hips (bum) are the largest.

PANTS/SHORTS
Crotch - from front of waistline between legs to back of waistline.
Length - Outer seam - from natural waistline down outer leg to desired length.
Length - Inner seam - from crotch seam down inner leg to desired length (in bare feet).
Top of Thigh - Around 1 leg at the largest part of the thigh.

For pictorial representation of the above measurements please go to the following website: 'Measurements'

Also please note - when you wrap the measuring tape make sure it is not too tight or too loose. There should be no gap between the tape and the body, but the tape should not sink into the skin at all.

We accept measurements in centimetres or inches, please email us at smokeyfashion@gmail.com.

If you have any trouble with your measurements, please contact us as we may be able to help.

The 'Heidi' Shorts

2006-02-01T11:23:00.000+08:00

The 'Heidi' shorts from the front.

The 'Heidi' shorts from the back.

Detail of the inside of the waisband.

These short shorts have a 4 inch wasitband (~10 cm) and cuffed bottoms. They have a hidden side zipper.

Our trademark printed cotton can be found lining the waistband as well as on the cuffs.

The cuffs can be ordered so that they can fold down to hide the printed cotton.

The 'Emily' Pants

2006-02-01T11:09:00.000+08:00

The 'Emily' pants from the front.

The 'Emily' pants from the back.

Detail of the lining at the bottom of the pant leg.

The 'Emily' pants have a wide 4 inch (~10 cm) waistband and a hidden side zipper. The bottoms of the legs are scalloped.

These funky pants are the master of subtle detail. Our trademark printed cotton lines the inside of the scallops at the bottom of the leg and the inside of the of the waistband.

These pants could be made shorter to a three-quarter length or even to the knee for a pair of cool shorts.

The 'Danielle' Skirt

2006-01-29T13:21:00.000+08:00

This skirt consists of 8 panels with 4 printed cotton inserts. It flares out at the bottom and has a sexy swing to it when you walk.

It has unfinished seams, creating an exciting raw look. Please note, these seams are designed to fray after washing.

This skirt has a side zipper and sits on the hips.

The 'Christy' Skirt

2006-01-29T13:15:00.000+08:00

This skirt has a narrow waistband and thin inserts of another funky retro cool printed cotton. It is also the same design front and back, and has a side zip and sits on the hips.

It has a simple A-line structure.

The 'Cath' Skirt

2006-01-29T13:10:00.000+08:00

This skirt has a wide waistband and generous pleats revealing a unique retro cool pattern. It has a side zip and sits on the upper hips. It is the same design on the front and back.

The Fine Print Regarding Fabrics

2006-01-29T12:57:00.000+08:00

All pictures are indicative of the garment design only, NOT the fabrics. Where possible we will do our best to ensure we accurately describe the material to be used, however as we make our garments to order, the material described may not always be available. If this happens, we will contact you to discuss the options unless you authorise us to make the choice ourselves.

We can also work with you to accommodate specific fabric and/or colour requests outside of what is on offer. Please email us on smokeyfashion@gmail.com

Smokey - Fashion for People

2006-01-28T18:35:00.000+08:00

What is it and how did it start?

Smokey - Fashion for People was initially started as a livelihood project to help provide Smokey Mountain residents with employment, training and opportunities. It was also viewed as a great opportunity to make some very funky clothes.

An Australian volunteer (Natalie) who had been working with the Smokey Mountain community for 6 months, came up with the idea after seeing the success of such ventures in Bangkok and Hanoi. She knew the residents could already sew, because they were making low quality goods selling at low prices (such as cleaning rags).

Natalie paired up with Joyet (an accountant working at Smokey Mountain) to start the business. We found a Smokey Mountain resident - Pidong - who had extensive experience as a sewer and pattern maker in the corporate uniform industry. We worked with him to sew our first samples and then our first orders.

The main team of Smokey - Fashion for People (L-R) - Natalie (Australian volunteer), Joyet (Accountant) and Pidong (Pattern maker, Sewer)

Our garments are manufactured and sold through a co-operative. This means that all the profits made are put back into the project and providing more livelihood opportunities.

The Co-op recently moved into a new office, on the outskirts of the Smokey Mountain residential area.

We worked with several young Australians to initially develop 3 skirt designs, unlike anything available in Manila and appealing to those with edgy tastes. This range has recently expanded to include a pair of short shorts and a pair of pants.

Our designs have a certain theme, we like to pair retro inspired prints with basic materials like denim, cord and twill. This provides our garments with a sense of individuality and fun.

After our first sales to Australia in late 2005, we raised enough funds to pay for 4 people to attend a basic dressmaking course. At this course they will learn pattern making, cutting, sewing and finishing. Not only will these skills enable them to work in our business and other sewing projects, it will give them further opportunity to set up their own business or travel abroad to work.

Our first two scholars have started their dressmaking course and we are in the process of recruiting two more scholars.

Pidong and Joyet inspect orders bound for Australia in late 2005.

The Story of Smokey Mountain

2006-01-28T18:26:00.000+08:00

Smokey Mountain - named firstly as a mountain because it has been as high as 35 m and secondly because it smokes almost continuously during the hot summer months. Waste from the City of Manila was first dumped here almost 50 years ago. Before that it was actually a fishing village, the sea is now a kilometre or so away from Smokey. The land has been reclaimed with dumped garbage over the years.

Around 15 years ago if you went to Smokey Mountain you would have found around 4,000 families living on and around the active dumpsite. The families were mostly poor migrants who came to Manila from the provinces in search of work. Smokey was a good location because it was cheap to live on and its close proximity to the ports where itinerant work could be found. Contrary to popular belief, not all the families living there were scavengers. Of course, a large number of them did try and scrape together a living from pulling anything of any value out of the numerous trucks that dumped rubbish there every day.

Side view of the still present dumpsite, with accomodation in the background.

In 1993, Smokey Mountain was closed and the government made a promise to provide housing to the squatters and to rehabilitate the mountain (we’re still waiting for that last one). Around 3,000 families were housed in temporary accommodation nearby while the new permanent accommodation was constructed. The rest of the families were housed in other areas or accepted cash grants.

Another view of the Smokey Mountain Community

The temporary housing, which stretched from what was supposed to be 2 years to about 10 years, is a fairly squalid example of accommodation. From what I understand, the two storey structures were open inside and families were to construct their own walls to get privacy. There was only 1 bathroom per floor. I imagine that would have had to be shared by 50 families. The temporary housing is still there and a new bunch of squatters has moved in. Now, with no electricity or running water and no-one responsible for any repairs, it is quite a depressing area.

Around 2004, the families were moved into their new accommodation, the permanent housing. This is also sometimes referred to as Paradise Heights. Although I notice that tends to be by outsiders, the residents still refer to it as Smokey Mountain. It probably has something to do with the still smoking, still 25 odd metre high mountain of garbage never more than 100 m away from all the housing.

The new housing is 5 stories high, with 24 units on each floor. Someone said to me once the units are about 32 square metres. Each unit has its own bathroom with a toilet and shower head. The sleeping quarters are a mezzanine level about half the size of the bottom level. A lot of the residents have done renovations and extended their mezzanine to cover the whole area. They have electricity and water is available from 6 am - 8 am and 6 pm - 8 pm daily, which means water needs to be stored for toilet flushing, washing and cooking in big containers during the ‘off’ hours.

Inside one of the buildings (Building 26)